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All About Zippers!

Tags
sewingbernettefabric
Date
October 1, 2024
Class
Explore: Garment & E-Textiles
Author
Cass Cacoq
Class Section
Discover: Sewing
Documentation Type
tutorial

Introduction

Zippers are an essential feature of clothing, apparel, accessories, and more. Knowing how to select the right zipper for your sewing project is important as this can dictate the structure and the function of the item you are sewing.

Different Types of Zippers

Zippers come in various types, each suited for different purposes and applications. Here’s a rundown of the most common types:

1. Coil Zippers

  • Description: Made of flexible, interlocking plastic or nylon coils.
  • Use: Common in clothing, bags, and lightweight applications. They’re flexible and can curve easily.

2. Metal Zippers

  • Description: Made of metal teeth and a metal slider.
  • Use: Often found in jeans, jackets, and heavy-duty items. They offer durability and a classic look.

3. Invisible Zippers

  • Description: Have teeth that are concealed behind the zipper tape when closed.
  • Use: Ideal for dresses, skirts, and any garment where you want a seamless look.

4. Heavy-Duty Zippers

  • Description: Thicker teeth and stronger tapes designed for heavy loads.
  • Use: Used in items like outdoor gear, luggage, and workwear.

5. Separating Zippers

  • Description: Two sides of the zipper can completely separate.
  • Use: Common in jackets and coats, allowing for easy donning and doffing.

6. Closed-End Zippers

  • Description: The slider cannot come off the bottom of the zipper.
  • Use: Used in skirts, pants, and dresses.

7. Two-Way Zippers

  • Description: Have two sliders that allow for opening from both ends.
  • Use: Common in jackets and tents for versatility.

8. Waterproof Zippers

  • Description: Sealed to prevent water from entering.
  • Use: Used in outdoor and sports gear, such as waterproof jackets and bags.

9. Lapped Zippers

  • Description: A flap of fabric covers the zipper.
  • Use: Often found in garments for a clean finish and additional coverage.

10. Exposed Zippers

  • Description: The zipper teeth are visible when the garment is worn.
  • Use: Used as a design feature in fashion, providing a bold look.

Each type of zipper has its unique strengths, so choosing the right one depends on your project’s specific needs!

How to Sew an Invisible Zipper

Sewing an invisible zipper can give your garment a clean, professional finish. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

Materials Needed:

  • Invisible zipper
  • Fabric
  • Sewing machine
  • Zipper foot (specifically for invisible zippers)
  • Pins or clips
  • Iron
  • Scissors

Instructions:

  1. Prepare Your Fabric:
    • Cut your fabric pieces according to your pattern, making sure to leave seam allowances as required.
    • Press the fabric to remove any wrinkles.
  2. Mark the Zipper Placement:
    • On the right side of the fabric, mark where the zipper will go. This is usually done along the center back or side seam, depending on your pattern.
  3. Sew the Seam:
    • Sew the seam where the zipper will be placed, but stop about 1-2 inches from where the zipper will end. Backstitch to secure the stitches.
  4. Press the Seam Open:
    • Press the seam allowance open to give you a flat edge for the zipper application.
  5. Attach the Zipper:
    • Open the invisible zipper and place the right side of the zipper tape against the right side of the fabric along the seam edge. Align the zipper teeth with the seam.
    • Pin or clip the zipper in place, ensuring it’s straight and the teeth are just above the seam allowance.
  6. Sew the Zipper:
    • Using the zipper foot, sew close to the zipper teeth. The invisible zipper foot allows you to sew right next to the teeth without sewing over them.
    • Start from the top and sew down, backstitching at both ends for security.
  7. Sew the Other Side:
    • Flip the zipper to the other side and repeat the process. Pin it in place, ensuring the zipper aligns properly with the other side of the seam, and sew as you did with the first side.
  8. Finish the Seam:
    • Once both sides of the zipper are sewn, you can finish the seam if desired (e.g., with a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying).
  9. Topstitch (Optional):
    • If you want, you can topstitch along the zipper seam for a cleaner look. Be careful to keep it straight.
  10. Press Again:
    • Gently press the zipper area with an iron, being cautious not to melt the zipper.

Tips:

  • Practice on Scrap Fabric: If you're new to invisible zippers, practice on a scrap piece first.
  • Choose the Right Zipper Length: Make sure your zipper is the appropriate length for your project.
  • Use a Quality Zipper Foot: This will make sewing easier and more precise.

Now you’re ready to enjoy your beautifully finished project with an invisible zipper!