How to Read a Sewing Pattern

Tags
fabricsewing
Date
Class
Explore: Garment & E-Textiles
Author
Oye Ajewole
Class Section
Documentation Type

Overview

Sewing patterns are essential guides that help you create garments and crafts with precision and accuracy. Understanding how to read a sewing pattern is crucial for executing your sewing projects successfully. This guide will break down the components of a sewing pattern and provide step-by-step instructions on interpreting them effectively.

For our guide we will be using “Glory Allan’s Regular T-shirt Sewing Pattern” as a reference. By the end of this guide we would have fully broken down each component of the pattern and have full understanding of the project.

Glory Allan - GA018-R - Regular Tee Sewing Pattern - Large Format.pdf1571.5KB
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1. Understanding the Basics

Pattern Title: The title of the pattern will include information like, designer/company name, pattern number and name, fit, care instructions and more.

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  • Fabric Suggestions + Supplies: Patterns will typical include a list of fabrics suitable for this project, information regarding how much fabric and a list of extra supplies and notions need for this project
  • Size Guideline: Each pattern comes in multiple size ranges. Typically there is a size guide chart that accompanies the pattern. To use this information you will have to know your body measurements.
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  • Printing Directions: There’s a high chance that sewing patterns cant be printed on a traditional office printer due to their size. Patterns typically come with printing directions on how to accurately print the pattern. This is crucial because incorrectly printed patterns will negatively effect the scale and end result. For this pattern theres a Test square to measure after printing to make sure the scale is accurate.
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  • Pattern Notes: The pattern notes will generally give you a total view of the pattern including: seam allowance, total number of pattern pieces, paper size, and more.
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2. Understanding the Pattern

  • Suggested Layout Plan: Patterns consist of multiple pieces representing different parts of the garment (e.g., bodice, sleeves, collar). Each piece is labeled with a number or letter corresponding to the pattern piece key provided in the instructions.
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Layout Plans are suggestions only and often do not always make the most use of the fabric. Feel free to play around with the layout to optimize fabric usage.

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  • Pattern Pieces and their titles: A pattern piece is a section of the whole sewing pattern. Each of these pattern pieces would have various symbols and lines as visual guides of what needs to be done with each pattern piece. Each piece should be numbered with description on which piece of the puzzle the patter piece correlates to you.

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CUT #: Is instruction into how many pieces of fabric to cut from the pattern piece (ex. CUT 2 means cut two pieces of fabric)

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  • Cutting Lines for Sizes: On sewing patterns with multiple sizes you will see various cutting lines. They are laid next to each other and usually overlap in places. The different cutting line styles are assigned to represent a different size. Reference the size guide on your pattern.
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  • Grainline: Pay attention to the grainline arrow on each pattern piece. This indicates the direction in which the piece should be aligned with the fabric's grain (parallel to the selvage) to ensure the garment hangs correctly.
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  • Notches: Notches are small triangular /line markings on the edges of pattern pieces. They indicate points where different pieces of the garment should be aligned during assembly. Match these notches carefully when cutting and sewing to ensure proper fit and alignment.
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  • Fold Lines: Sometimes pattern pieces have a fold line or state “place on fold/cut on fold”. This is because the pattern piece is symmetrical and only needs to have one piece cut out. When you see place on fold you want to fold your fabric and align the edge of the pattern piece to the fold. When you cut make sure to cut through both sides of the fabric.
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3. Sewing Instructions:

*Sewing Instructions: This will vary depending if the sewing pattern is digital or physical. Physical sewing patterns come with printed instructions on the back of the sewing pattern. Digital sewing patterns usually have pdfs instructions and can often come with additional resources like tutorial videos.

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4. Congratulations!

You have successfully completed and understand how to execute this sewing pattern, enabling you to create this t-shirt by Glory Allan.

Additional Tips: Pattern Reading Database

Each designer/brand have their own style of making patterns. With that said, there are industry rules that every designer uses when creating patterns. This pattern by Glory Allan has a few but there is a vast library of different symbols, instructions, and layout that you will encounter when reading different sewing patterns. Check out the Pattern Reading Database to get yourself familiar with any of sewing symbols, lines and instruction you may run into in the wild.By following this guide, you'll gain the confidence and skills needed to navigate and successfully execute sewing patterns, enabling you to create beautifully tailored garments and projects. Happy sewing!