In-Seam Pocket

Patch Pocket

In-seam pockets are a practical and sleek addition to garments, seamlessly blending into side seams while providing convenient storage. Inseam pockets are the type of pockets that are hidden in a seam of your garment and are entirely enclosed by the outer layers, leaving no visible edges, stitching lines etc. They are primarily, though not exclusively, used on dresses, skirts and some pants.

2. Trace and cut out 2 pairs of a pocket pattern. 

When tracing and cutting your pocket pattern you want to make sure you have 2 front and 2 back pieces. You do this by laying the pocket pattern in one direction then mirroring (flipping) the pocket pattern and cutting.

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*Tip: A shortcut to cutting out the pocket pattern is to fold your fabric in half and then pin the template an inch away from the fold. Cut through both layers of fabric at the same time

3. Finish the edges of the pockets and garment. 

Use a serger, a zig-zag stitch, or pinking shears to finish all 4 pocket pieces, along with the front and back pieces of the garment. This will clean up any raw seams that would look messy on the finished garment.

4. Pin the pocket pieces on the garment pieces. 

Lay one of the front garment pieces flat in front of you, with the decorative side (also called the right side) facing up. Then, lay one of the pocket pieces so the straight edges are lined up with the garment piece, with the right side facing down, and pin the pocket in place. Repeat for the other sides.

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After pinning the 4 pocket pieces, compare the front and back pieces of your garment by laying them next to each other and see if the pockets line up perfectly. If they don’t adjust until they line up perfectly.

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For pants and skirts, the top of the pocket typically is about 4.5 in (11 cm) below the waistband.

5. Sew the straight edge of each pocket with a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance. (*Remember to backstitch

6. Fold each pocket piece open and press along the seam. 

Once you've sewed your seam allowances, spread the pocket fabric open over the seam, so you can see the right side while you're looking at the right side of the garment. Then, use your iron to press the pocket flat all the way along the seam. This will help the pocket appear hidden inside the finished garment.

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If you want to further make sure that your pockets won’t show on the outside, you can topstitch them to the panels 1⁄8 in from the seam. It only takes a couple of minutes but gives a neater pocket and a more professional result.

7. Pin together the front and back pieces with right sides facing each other. 

Match up the 4 garment pieces so you have the front and the back of the left side together, and the front and back of the right side together. Pin all along the inseam, including around the edges of the pocket.

8. Sew around each inseam and pocket with a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) seam allowance. 

Start at the top, outside edge of one of the pieces, and use a straight stitch to sew down along the inseam. When you get to the pocket, lift the presser foot but leave the needle down, and rotate the material. Continue sewing around the pocket, and rotate the fabric again in the same way when you get to the other side, then finish sewing down the rest of the inseam.

9. Turn the pieces of the garment right side out and press the pockets. 

When you're finished sewing the pockets into place, they'll still be sticking straight out. To get them to lie in the garment naturally, turn each piece right side out. Use your iron to press each pocket again, then enjoy your new garment!

Patch pockets are a simple and versatile type of pocket that is sewn onto the outside of a garment. They are called "patch" pockets because they resemble a patch sewn onto the fabric. These pockets are popular in casual wear, workwear, and some formal garments due to their functionality and aesthetic appeal. Patch pockets are commonly found on shirts, jackets, coats, and pants. They can be both functional and decorative, adding character to a garment while providing convenient storage space.

Draw a square/rectangle shape onto the fabric and cut it out. Think about the size you want your patch pocket to be, and draw it onto a piece of fabric with tailor's chalk. Add 11⁄2in (3.8 cm) to the top of the pocket for a hem, and 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) to the bottom and sides for seam allowance.

2. Hem the top edge

Fold the top edge down 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm), then 1 in (2.5 cm), and stitch it. By folding the top edge down over the wrong side of the fabric twice, the pocket will be sturdier, and the finished edge will look nicer. Use a straight stitch to secure the seam into place.

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Sewing the top edge from the right side of the fabric will result in a nicer finish than sewing it from the wrong side of the fabric

3. Hem the Sides and Bottom

Mark 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the sides and bottom of your fabric. Fold the sides and bottom towards the wrong side of the fabric and press the seams down with an iron.

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Ironing the pocket will make it look neater, but it will also make sure you’re able to sew it flat against the garment.

4. Attach Pocket

Pin the pocket to the garment, then top stitch it close to the edge to secure it into place. When top stitching pocket make sure to only stitch the sides and bottom, leaving the top of the pocket open.

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When edge stitching get as close to the edge of the pocket as possible. 1⁄8 in (.32 cm) from the fold is a good distance to aim for

5. Reinforcing the pocket opening

Backstitch at the top corners of the pocket to secure them. To reinforce the corners of the pocket, sew all the way to the edge of the fabric, then switch the sewing machine to a backstitch and go back over the last 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) or so. Then, sew forward one more time to complete the stitch. We do this to prevent the pocket from unraveling at the corners.