There are many type of sleeves out there, each with a different look, fit and method of construction. In this document we will be focusing on the most traditional type of sleeve, The Set-in Sleeve. It is called “set-in” because we will be fitting in or setting in the sleeve to a garment that has the shoulder and side seam already sewn together and pressed opened.

Materials and Tools

• Fabric
• Sleeve Pattern Pieces
• Sewing Machine
• Scissors
• Pins/Clips
• Iron + Ironing Board
• Fabric Marker/Chalk

Preparation

1. Cutting the Sleeve Pieces
1. Grab your sleeve sewing pattern
2. Lay Out Your Fabric: Place your fabric on a flat, clean surface. Ensure your fabric is smooth and wrinkle free. If needed use iron.
3. Cut the Sleeve Pieces: Pin your fabric pattern pieces to your fabric and cut out the sleeves. (Make sure to follow the grainline as indicated on the pattern piece)
4. Mark the Fabric: Using your fabric marker/chalk transfer any important information from the pattern to your fabric. Most sleeve patterns will have “balance marks”, make sure to transfer these marks to your fabric

2. Preparing the Garment
1. The body/garment should be properly finished and ready to receive the sleeve at this point. Normally this will mean the shoulder and side seam of your body/garment are sewn and pressed
2. Mark the Garment: Similar to the sleeve make sure to transfer the “balance marks” from the pattern to the front and back of the garment. The “balance marks” will help align the sleeve and body in later steps.

Sewing the Sleeve

1. Assemble the Sleeve
1. Sew Darts or Pleats: If you pattern includes sleeve darts or pleats, sew these first. Press them according to the pattern instructions
2. Sew the Seam: Join the sleeve seam, and press open

2. Prepare the Sleeve Cap with Gathering Stitches: Using the largest stitch length on the sewing machine, run a line of stitching between the front and back “balance marks” (the sleeve cap), slightly smaller than the seam allowance. DO NOT BACK STITCH at the beginning of the end as these stitches are only used to gather the fabric and not meant to be there permanently. Make sure to also leave a long tail of thread at the end of the gather stitch so you can pull the thread later.

3. Setting the Sleeve into the Armhole
1. Ease the Sleeve Cap: Gently pull the threads in one direction so that fabric bunches/gathers together. Once the fabric starts to bunch/gather, begin to even out the bunching/gathering along the cap of the sleeve.
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As you pull the thread, you'll notice that the sleeve cap starts to curve inward. The goal here is to pull the threads enough to curve the cap, but not so much that it creates gathers.

2. Align the Sleeve: Turn the sleeve to the right side out and the garment inside out. Insert the sleeve into the armhole, aligning the side seam and underarm seam. Match the balance marks and any other markings.
3. Pin or Clip: Use pins or clips to secure the sleeve in place. Start by pin or clipping the underarm and side seam together, then work your way around.
4. Even out the Ease (gathering): Even out the gathering between the front and back balance marks. Ensure that the fabric is evenly distributed and that there are no puckers.

4. Sew the Sleeve
1. Sew the sleeve into place starting at the underarm seam and taking the pins or clips out as you sew. Sew all the way around, making sure that the shoulder, sleeve and and side seam are open and flat. Base your seam allowance on the specified seam allowance on your pattern.

Finishing Touches (Optional)

1. Pressing the Sleeve
1. Press Seam Allowance: Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve and away from the body
2. Finishing the Seam: With the seam towards the sleeve, zigzag the seam together
2. Final Adjustments
1. Check the Fit: Try on the garment to check the fit of the sleeve. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure comfort and appearance.

Troubleshooting

1. Puckering: If you notice puckering, it could be due to too much fabric gathered or uneven stitching. Adjust the gathers and ensure your stitching is even. Pressing can also help smooth out minor puckers.
2. Uneven Seams: Ensure you’re sewing at a consistent seam allowance and that your fabric is evenly distributed. Re-sew the seam if necessary.
3. Fit Problems: If the sleeve feels tight or loose, adjust the fit by taking in or letting out the seam allowances. Try adjusting the sleeve cap ease if needed.

Conclusion

Sewing a sleeve may seem complex at first, but with practice, it becomes a straightforward process. By following these detailed steps, you’ll achieve well-fitted, professional-looking sleeves that enhance the overall quality of your garment. Keep practicing and experimenting to refine your skills. Happy sewing!

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Images from

Taylor McVay Tutorial: Setting In Sleeves — Blueprints For Sewing

and

Doina Alexei How to Sew a Regular Set In Sleeve: Tutorial with Pictures